T-Moulding Your Arcade Cabinet: Tips for a Clean Finish 

You can build the sturdiest cabinet in the world, paint it perfectly and load it up with thousands of games. But if the edges look rough, it'll never quite feel like the real thing. That's where T-moulding comes in. 

If you've ever run your hand along the edge of a classic arcade cabinet at a bowling alley or fish and chip shop, you've felt T-moulding. It's the smooth PVC strip that wraps the exposed panel edges, giving the whole machine that finished, authentic look. It's one of those details that separates a weekend project from something that genuinely looks like it belongs in an arcade. 

We actually put together a quick T-moulding tips video over on our socials which you can see below if you want to see the process in action. Check out our socials for other build tips and more! @arcade.revival on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok & YouTube.

What Is T-Moulding (And Why Does It Matter)? 

T-moulding is a flexible strip with a T-shaped cross section. The spine slides into a slot cut along the edge of your panel and the two wings fold out over the surface on each side. It protects the raw edge from chips and dings while giving your DIY arcade machine a smooth, rounded finish. 

Beyond looks, T-moulding is practical. MDF edges are soft and will dent or flake over time, especially on a machine that's going to see regular use in your man cave or garage. The moulding acts as a bumper. It's the same reason original manufacturers used it on every commercial cabinet since the early 80s. 

Start with the Right MDF 

Before you even think about T-moulding, you need to be building with the right panel thickness. In our step-by-step build guide, we recommend 18mm MDF for your cabinet panels. There's a good reason for that: 18mm gives you the structural strength you need for a solid cabinet and it's the perfect match for standard 19mm T-moulding. The moulding wings so it flush on each side with just the right amount of coverage. 

If you go thinner, the moulding will overhang the edges. Go thicker and it won't cover properly. 18mm is the sweet spot, industry standard for arcade machines and it's easy to source from any hardware store. 

Choosing the Right T-Moulding 

Size: 

Since you're building with 18mm MDF (as we recommend), you want 19mm T-moulding. That's the standard arcade cabinet size and it's what we sell on our website. Our 19mm T-moulding comes in 5-meter rolls, which is enough to cover a full side panel with some to spare. If you grab an Arcade Revival Starter Kit, you get 10.5 meters of T-moulding included right in the box, so you're covered for the entire cabinet including the front of the control panel from day one. 

Colour: 

This is where it gets fun. We stock T-moulding in red, blue, green, yellow, black, white and chrome. Red is the classic choice and gives your home arcade that unmistakable retro look. But a lot of builders go with a colour that matches their cabinet artwork or joystick and buttons. Red on a black cabinet looks incredible. So does blue if you're going for that classic Capcom vibe. 

When you order a Starter Kit, you get to choose your T-moulding colour after checkout so you can match it to the rest of your build. 

Cutting the Slot: You Don't Need to Source a Special Bit 

One of the biggest questions we get from first-time builders is about cutting the slot for T-moulding. You need a router with a slot-cutting bit to cut a channel along the edge of your panels for the moulding spine to sit in. 

Here's the thing: Our Arcade Revival Starter Kit comes with a 2.38mm slot cutter router bit included. It's purpose-built to cut the exact slot size that matches our T-moulding, so there's no guesswork and no hunting around trying to find the right bit. Just chuck it in your router and go. 

The bit is designed to cut clean through MDF and it creates a precise slot every time. Your T-moulding snaps in smooth and secure with no wobbles or gaps.

Tips for a Clean T-Moulding Install 

Getting T-moulding in is straightforward but there are a few things that'll make the difference between "good enough" and genuinely professional. 

Cut Your Slot Carefully: 

The slot needs to run straight and centred along the edge of your panel. If it wanders or is off-centre, the moulding will sit crooked and you'll notice it every time you look at the cabinet. Take your time here. Use the router bit that comes with the kit, keep a steady hand and let the bit do the work. Our build guide walks you through exactly where to route and how to keep your lines clean. We suggest working with a test piece of MDF first to get your depth 100%, then moving onto your Arcade Cabinet.

T-Moulding around Corners: 

Corners can be tricky, but once you know the technique they're straightforward. For outward bends, cut small grooves along the T-moulding spine so it flexes smoothly around the curve. This lets the moulding wrap around the outside of a corner without fighting you or kinking. For inward bends, remove small sections of the spine so the moulding folds in neatly without bulging. Just snip out enough material that it sits flat when you press it into the slot. If you're dealing with a particularly tight corner, warming the moulding up with a heat gun or hairdryer gives you extra flexibility to get a clean bend. 

Start in the Right Spot: 

Think about where you start pressing the moulding into the slot. You want the seam (where the two ends meet) to end up somewhere inconspicuous. The back of the cabinet or a bottom edge that faces the wall are good choices. Nobody wants a visible join right at eye level on the front of their retro arcade setup. We suggest starting at the cabinet base to make your build look completely seamless.

Press It In Firmly: 

You can use a rubber mallet to seat the moulding into the slot. If you don't have a rubber mallet a regular hammer wrapped in a cloth to soften the impact works well too. Work your way along the edge in sections. 

Trim the Ends Clean 

Where the two ends of moulding meet, use a sharp utility knife or flush-cut snips for a clean join. A sloppy end cut will leave a gap or overlap that catches the eye. Take an extra ten seconds to get it right. 

Common T-Moulding Mistakes to Avoid

A few things that trip up first-time builders on their retro arcade build: 

Cutting the slot too deep.

You only need the slot deep enough to hold the spine. Going too deep weakens the panel edge and the moulding won't grip properly. Our router bits get you sorted here.

Using the wrong MDF thickness:

If your panels aren't 18mm, your 19mm T-moulding won't sit right. Get the panel thickness sorted first and everything else falls into place. The only exception is with the control panel, we advise to use 16mm MDF. The reason is that if you want to put artwork on your control panel (and of course you do!) using 16mm MDF allows you to place 3mm plexiglass on top of your artwork to seal it in place bringing the total thickness to 19mm which gives a cleaner, more seamless finish when installing the T-moulding.

Skipping curves:

If you try to force cold & un-prepped moulding around a tight curve, it'll kink or pop out. Always warm it up first and prep the spine for the curve required for that section.

Rushing the Job:

T-moulding takes maybe 30 minutes per panel if you're being careful. It's one of the last steps in the cabinet construction process and it's tempting to blast through it. Don't. This is the detail work that makes your DIY arcade machine look like the real deal. 

The Detail That Ties It All Together 

T-moulding is one of those finishing touches that most people don't consciously notice on a cabinet. But they absolutely notice when it's missing. It's the difference between a plywood box with a screen in it and a proper arcade machine that looks like it was pulled straight out of 1992. 

The good news is that if you're building with an Arcade Revival Starter Kit, you already have everything you need: 10.5 meters of premium 19mm T-moulding in your choice of colour and the matching router bit to cut the slot. Our build guide covers the full installation process so you know exactly where to route and how to get a factory-quality finish. 

Check out the full range of arcade parts and kits at arcaderevival.com.au and follow us @arcade.revival on Instagram and TikTok for build tips and customer builds. 

Frequently Asked Questions 

What size T-moulding do I need for my arcade cabinet? 

If you're following our build guide and using 18mm MDF for your panels (which we recommend), then 19mm T-moulding is what you need. That's the standard size for arcade cabinets and it's what we include in every Arcade Revival Starter Kit. The 19mm width covers the 18mm panel edge perfectly with the wings sitting flush on both sides. 

However, there is one exception; we advise when completing the control panel you use 16mm MDF. The reason is that if you want to put artwork on your control panel (and of course you do!) using 16mm MDF allows you to place 3mm plexiglass on top of your artwork to seal it in place bringing the total thickness to 19mm which gives a cleaner, more seamless finish when installing the T-moulding.

Do I need to buy a special router bit for T-moulding? 

Not if you're building with one of our kits. Every Arcade Revival Starter Kit comes with a 2.38mm slot cutter router bit that's matched to our T-moulding. It cuts the exact slot width you need for a tight, seamless fit. You just need a standard plunge router to put it into. If you already have a kit and need a replacement or spare, we sell the bit separately on our website too. 

Does T-moulding come in different colours? 

Yes. We stock 19mm T-moulding in seven colours: red, blue, green, yellow, black, white and chrome. Chrome is the classic arcade look but plenty of our builders go with a colour that matches their artwork or buttons. When you order a Starter Kit, you choose your T-moulding colour after checkout so you can coordinate it with the rest of your build.